Falkland Islands, UK Territory

22 November 2007

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After my first trip to Antarctica with Quark Expeditions three years ago I had been itching to go back, most especially to South Georgia so this trip, also with Quark, was to be the centerpiece of my four-month odyssey. The first stop was the Falkland Islands, just 25 years after it sprang onto the international stage (essentially the last colonial war of the British Empire). After leaving Ushuaia and hitting a Force 8 (the remnants of a hurricane) we headed for West Falkland and two small rat-free islands, West Point and Carcass Island.

On the first beautiful day West Point Island had seen for weeks we had the great opportunity to visit at close quarters a colony of Black-browed Albatrosses, bizarrely intermingled with a big group of Rockhopper Penguins. None of the biologists we spoke with could think of another location where this was happening and indeed had no conclusive explanation for the phenomenon. I spent a very happy couple of hours watching the albatrosses and penguins as they went about their daily routine – including a spot of mating, squabbling amongst neighbours as each bird tried to make it’s way back to its’ nest (the rockhoppers were especially snarky when someone even appeared to move anywhere near their territory), and the awkward landings of the albatrosses (so majestic in the air, these beautiful birds have the hardest of times in their transition form air to land and vice versa).

The unfortunately named Carcass Island (after the HMS Carcass which first discovered it) was spectacular – from the sweeping beach which would not have been out of place in the Caribbean to the magnificent birdlife amongst the tussock grass. During a couple of hours of rambling I managed to photograph Striated Caracara, Magellanic Penguins, Blackish Oystercatchers, a Black-crowned Night-heron, kelp and Upland Geese, the indigenous Falklands Steamer Duck and a Magellanic Snipe.

Both West Point and Carcass have small settlements that do their best to scratch a living from the unforgiving climate, poor earth and enforced isolation. The rise in ecotourism has helped them a bit though, as more and more visitors make the long journey to get a taste of the wildlife on offer.

Stanley, though not a highlight for a nature photographer, was fairly interesting and did have one major draw for an itinerant smoker – pubs in which you can still smoke!! But seriously, the town was intriguing, especially the museum which was primarily devoted the war, but also had good sections on how the islanders once lived and how/when the island were discovered.

Throughout the whole 3-week trip I spent a great deal on deck during the multiple sea-days, photographing the magnificent albatrosses and the related petrels. On this first leg to the Falklands we had the great fortune to come upon a solitary Sooty Albatross who circled the ship for a good hour. Not normally found in those waters, as they nest on the other side of Antarctica amongst the islands south of Australia and New Zealand, they are a very attractive bird, especially given the white stripe along the bill which makes them appear to be constantly smiling.

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