Masai village of Ololosokowan, Tanzania

12 September 2007

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The first evening of my stay in the Loliondo we headed off to the local Masai village of Ololosokowan, to which Sokwe Asilia pay for each guest who stays at Suyan. Not a tourist or “cultural” village (such as near the Mara or the Serengeti) it was a rare privilege to see how the local people lived. Even more so as they were at the tail-end of a six-month festival called Vonto which celebrates the current Masai Warriors becoming Elders, in order to allow the next generation to become Warriors in turn. As the Masai are careless with years, the event is held every 7-10 years in a purpose-built boma erected by the mothers of the Warriors – a structure that only last for the duration of the festival before being completely razed.

The afternoon we arrived proved lucky as nearly all the Warriors were present, having taken part in a big ceremony the previous evening. Initially they were nearly all very shy, the notable exception being the head Warrior Michau who allowed us to photograph him in a variety of mock fierce stances. Although Gian said that I could walk around and take as many pictures as I liked I am always loath to stick my camera into people’s faces as it smacks too much of cultural imperialism. As such I restricted myself to a few shots of children and a few mothers who assented.

But slowly the mood changed. Perhaps it was that unusually all the warriors were present. Or that we were only two mzungu (foreigners). Or that we had digital cameras that allowed them instant feedback. Or the renowned vanity of Masai men.

Whatever it was, within half an hour or so we were in huge demand as nearly all the Warriors wanted their photo taken, with huge crowds pushing and shoving to see the shots, all the time laughing and smiling. Gian was also amazed as in over a year of visiting the village with a tourist or two every fortnight, had never experienced such a reaction. They simply couldn’t get enough and only the failing light stopped the impromptu photo session. As we drove away it was to big smiles and a chorus of “Tomorrow?” Fantastic.

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